Many people may believe that Japan’s mountains are suitable for guiding because of their magnificent terrain and climate, or that Japan’s snow is the best. Others might think it’s because Japanese people are so kind and easy to work with, making guiding easier. These elements are true to some extent, but the real meaning behind the phrase is actually that “Japan is a country where one can guide without a mountain guiding qualification.”
In the past year or two, as restrictions due to the COVID-19 pandemic have eased, inbound demand for Japan’s mountains has risen rapidly. This has led to a surge in cases of accidents, avalanches, and violations of ski resort rules such as off-piste skiing, particularly involving foreigners.
It’s important to note that these incidents are not solely caused by the increased number of inbound tourists. Returning to the idea of “Guide Heaven Japan,” the core issue lies in the fact that in Japan, there is no legal requirement for a guide certification to lead in the mountains, whether it’s in summer or winter, or for activities like backcountry skiing and mountaineering. This means that even if an unqualified foreign guide takes tourists into the mountains, there are no legal repercussions.
As a result, for example, foreign mountaineers might hire unqualified foreign guides to climb or ski in Japan’s mountains, and this wouldn’t cause any legal problems. In extreme cases, unqualified foreign guides who lack mountaineering skills and don’t know the local history, background, or rules could lead groups, and there’s no way to regulate or stop them. Some guiding companies in Japan, owned by foreign corporations, have been using this “loophole” to boost their sales in the past few years due to the surge in inbound demand, and this winter, they will likely continue their business activities in the same way.
What’s the result of this situation? The overuse of famous mountain regions in Japan and snowy areas with excellent powder skiing resources—pride of the country—are being “consumed.” As a result, regulations have tightened, and now even ordinary mountaineers are being affected. On top of that, there are growing regional burdens such as the cost of trail maintenance, the workload of those responding to rescue requests, and the financial burden on taxpayers for rescue operations. The list of negative impacts is endless.
To address this issue, The Japan Mountain Guide Association(JMGA) have been working tirelessly to make the Japanese mountain guide qualification a national qualification, much like in European. However, as of summer 2024, the qualification remains private, and concrete legal frameworks with national and local governments, or national parks, are still lacking.
To break through this domestic situation, in May 2024, at the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) conference in Chamonix, France, JMGA announced to other IFMGA countries that non-IFMGA certified guides should not lead in Japanese mountains. This announcement has caused a significant ripple effect abroad.
The Structure of Japan’s Mountain Guide Qualifications
The largest organization in Japan that certifies guides is JMGA. Their qualifications are divided into three main fields: nature and mountaineering guides, ski guides, and climbing instructors, each with a hierarchical structure. These qualifications are valid only in Japan, and there is an international mountain guide qualification that encompasses all areas. This system of dividing qualifications by specialty is also used in English-speaking countries like Canada, the United States, and New Zealand (Europe differs, where guides are automatically considered international mountain guides). An international mountain guide is permitted to guide activities like mountaineering, climbing, and skiing in any of the IFMGA member countries (including Japan).
Currently, most wealthy inbound tourists who spend money in Japan’s mountains are from English-speaking countries or people who speak English, and foreign mountaineers tend to hire guides who speak English. This situation has triggered the ripple effect mentioned earlier.
Impact on Foreign Guides and Companies
Firstly, foreign guides with recognized qualifications (e.g., ski guides) who have previously guided backcountry skiing in Japan are no longer able to guide there. As a result, accidents and issues that were previously prevented by these qualified guides will likely surface.
Next, consider the response from foreign-owned guiding companies based in Japan. Eager to hire English-speaking guides by this winter, some have circulated the message, “In Japan, there are no penalties for unqualified guides to lead in the mountains. We will provide work visas, so please come work for us this winter.” As a result, foreign guides who are not certified as international mountain guides (e.g., ski guides) find it more difficult to promote themselves as official guides in Japan due to this announcement. They may even face penalties from the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations. On the other hand, there is a paradox in that unqualified foreigners—who only speak English, can climb, or ski—are able to guide in Japan.
From the perspective of those in IFMGA countries where mountain guiding is a national qualification or same level, this situation looks something like this: imagine someone who passed a driving test and got a license and is fined for not wearing a seatbelt while driving. In contrast, someone who hasn’t taken driving lessons or obtained a license can still drive without any penalty for not wearing seatbelt.
Further Issues and Contradictions
There are other factors contributing to this contradiction. Japan has multiple organizations and regions issuing mountain guide and instructor qualifications (Note 4), and there is no interoperability between them due to historical reasons. From the perspective of Japan’s relevant authorities, the priority might be to first solve the domestic qualification integration problem before tackling the issue of unqualified foreign guides. However, there are compelling reasons to reconsider this approach. It is clear that the person who has taken the time and money to undergo training and obtain qualifications carries less risk of causing problems than someone who has not. Moreover, if someone is qualified, any violations they commit can be punished by the issuing organization or local authorities.
Some people might argue that as long as someone is a renowned mountaineer or skier, they shouldn’t need a qualification. But from the previous perspective, this seems illogical. A qualified guide has passed training specifically for guiding, and being a skilled mountaineer or skier is a prerequisite. Allowing someone to guide without a qualification is like saying an F1 driver can drive on public roads without a license.
Another issue is that this situation has persisted for decades, ever since mountain guiding began in Japan, and this long-standing lack of change is part of the problem.
The Impact on Japanese outdoors the Future
If only cooperative Japanese hiker, climber and skier had been involved, the problem may not have been so severe. However, with the influx of tourists from around the world seeking Japan’s natural beauty, this issue will likely become more serious.
This contradiction created by the legal loopholes has led to some foreigners “exploiting” Japanese mountains, and this issue, initially in skiing, is likely to spread to rock climbing and summer mountaineering in the near future.
Moreover, it’s important to recognize that unqualified guides exist not only among foreigners but also among Japanese. In this sense, eliminating unqualified guides from Japan is the first step toward solving this problem.
To do this, the industry needs to raise awareness among general outdoors and the public about the dangers of unqualified guides, as well as the rigorous training and qualifications of qualified guides. By fostering a deeper understanding of the local history and culture of mountain regions, guides will become rooted in those areas and, over time, become pioneers who contribute to the future of sustainable and safe mountain tourism.
Conclusion
The issues surrounding unqualified foreign guides are not limited to guides alone but will likely affect general outdoors as well. With the government planning to attract more wealthy foreign tourists to national parks, if we are to welcome them, we must develop the necessary infrastructure to protect Japanese wonderful mountain resources and ensure there are enough qualified personnel to guarantee mountain safety.
While it’s great that mountain guides are becoming national certification, the current lack of rules to regulate unqualified guides means that even if guiding qualifications become national, this problem will not be solved. I hope the mountain community and society as a whole will start to actively discuss legal reform, transcending the positions of individual guides or mountaineers.
Now is the right time for all stakeholders to discuss this issue, creating an opportunity for a broader discussion that will help further develop the laws and regulations around mountain guiding in Japan.
Let’s work together to make Japanese mountains something the world can be proud of.